It was the food mostly, and the wine, of course. There are no cars and nowhere to stay but a simple campsite. The ferry pulled out of Vigo harbour on a morning simultaneously warm and crisp that carried with it a hint of summer's end. We docked at a tiny harbour, and there it was, Praia de Rodas, a long arc of sand with the texture of soft brown sugar, the water blue as pharmaceutical glass, framed by a gentle landscape of rocks and farmland. A few little boats seemed to float in the celestial calm of the bay. There was no doubt in my mind that this place could hold its own among the finest beaches of the Mediterranean and the Indian Ocean.
I plunged into the unruffled water. But then neither would we want them to be. The whole point of Spain's secret summer destination - the costa the crowds forgot - is that it happily refuses to be anything but itself. His dishes are a simple exaltation of local products: octopus caught on the rocks, with a garlic emulsion; hake with a citrus sauce and pickled seaweed.
The spectacular Spanish region that the British haven't discovered
For modern tapas and great service, this Pontevedra basement-bar-restaurant is top-drawer. Contemporary Galician cuisine, hitherto best represented by Pepe Vieira and Casa Solla both near Pontevedra , now has another star in chef Yayo Daporta, who showcases original creations such as oysters with caramelised cauliflower and carrot vinegar at his slick restaurant in Cambados. Head to 'Uncle Benito's' in Barrantes for traditional cooking at its best. Choose from classic dishes such as salt cod, or a deeply savoury octopus and potato stew. Be sure to try the notorious local red, so dark it stains the porcelain cup it's drunk from, as well as your teeth.
Address: Av. A converted salt warehouse right on the seafront in Corrubedo, this destination restaurant combines the virtues of a new-wave tavern, fish market and eco-deli. Follow Traveller share-facebook share-twitter share-instagram share-youtube share-pinterest Newsletter Sign Up.
Galicia, Spain | The Condé Nast Traveller guide to Galicia and the Rías Baixas | CN Traveller
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San Anton Castle. Originally a hospital founded in , the building is rife with historic touches, including creaky wooden doors with giant, old-style keys.
tinkerby.com/includes/map3.php Today, its wines are made from the harvest of more than 2, separate plots and imported by Gallo. Winemaker Ana Quintela oversees the grape selection, while mother-daughter team Victoria and Marisol Bueno keep a close watch. Once owned by a Spanish drug lord, then seized by the government and turned into a winery by the collective Condes de Albarei, this sprawling stone compound in the Galician countryside boasts fifty-five acres of forty-year-old vines.
Five percent of all profits here are pledged toward fighting drug addiction. Where to Eat: Superb service, ridiculously fresh seafood, and unique presentation will win you over at upscale Eirado da Lena in the main square of Pontevedra.
Try the finely sliced scallops served on sea stones.